Why, after nearly 15 years, is my surfing ability still below average?
I’ve just got back from a frustrating early morning surf down at Ocean Grove with Damian and Jon. Bugger bugger bugger.
The waves were 3-4ft and glassy, but a bit inconsistent (10 minute lulls, then 10 waves in a row), but the reason for my "buggers" is that I should have been carving it up today and I wasn’t.
Some history. I took up surfing when I moved to Australia in 1991, and got to a reasonable standard within a year or so by regularly surfing at Anglesea, Torquay and Jan Juc with friends. (By reasonable standard I mean able to stand and ride the wave for a distance.)
Today I realised that now, almost 15 years later, I am pretty much still at that level. It’s just not good enough and is starting to affect my enjoyment of it. So today I’ve decided to do something about it.
I have a good board, I live less than 20 minutes from more than five decent breaks, I’m healthy, I have time to surf at least two days a week (more in summer when daylight savings kicks in), and quite often Jayne comes with me and walks Max. Basically, there are no excuses for being as crap as I am.
Here’s what I think the problems are:
- I always surf at Ocean Grove. The beachbreak there is gentle, there’s a great cafe overlooking the beach, Jayne can walk Max there and it’s rarely crowded. Sounds great. The problem is that the wave often closes out, which makes it difficult to ride for any distance and can also make it tough to get back out, primarily because …
- … I can’t duckdive for shit. Any progress I make on my way back out after a wave is lost when a decent wave washes me back towards shore.
- I’m not surf fit. Today Damian and I were lucky enough to catch a lull and get out the back without even getting our hair wet, but I was knackered after our paddle of only 60m. I needed a 10 minute rest break before I picked off a wave, and even then I was too tired to attack it properly.
- Three or four surfs a month is not enough to build experience.
So here’s what I’m going to do.
- Get surf fit. As soon as I post this I’m yahoogling "surf fitness". I’m determined to get fitter in my upper body and increase my aerobic capacity.
- Learn how to duck dive properly. I might even take a lesson or two if I can’t find anything about technique on the web.
- Surf more. I can easily get out six times a month, probably eight if I’m dedicated (which I am). Time in the water in all conditions can only improve my experience, not reduce it.
- Surf five times out of eight at Ocean Grove, with the other three at 13th Beach or Jan Juc.
- Watch the tides and swells and surf at the right time. Ocean Grove seems to work best at low tide when the swell’s small and at high tide when it’s bigger.
C’mmoooooonnnnnnn!


